DSM 7-Bolt 4G64 swap w/ 4G63 1G DOHC head in a 2G
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I have decided I am going with the HKS 272s on both intake and exhaust. www.horsepowerfreak.com has a sale right now, they are going for $294 each. I also need to get another set of ARP head studs because the ones I had are for a 6-bolt. Asides from those few parts I need, there are couple of other little things that I will need in order for the car to drive on the road. That includes a new ACT 2600 pressure plate, and some back-up lights.
This is a picture of the Evo oil filter housing. I picked it up from www.diamondstarmotorsport.com for $65 they offer them for the 6 and 7 bolt motors. www.machv.com also has them but they are $69 for the 6-bolt and $89 for the 7-bolt. These are the air cooled units that come stock on the 6-bolt blocks, the ones that fit on the 7-bolt are from the Lancer Evo but bolt right up. In the picture you can see a tap inside the housing. This is because there isn't a place to screw in one of the oil pressure sensors. There is already a hole there that can very easily be drilled out and tapped to except the sensor. Also the red arrow points to a block off bolt This bolt needs to be removed so that you can supply oil to the turbo. It uses a 8mm torxs bit and is a pain in the a$$ get out. These little bolts make a great way to block off those extra holes you will now have in the 1G thermostat housing, why? Because you no longer need to run water lines to the oil filter housing too cool the oil. It also may be important to note that the bolt pattern on the 6 and 7 filter housing is different so you'll need one for the model engine you have. Also the 6-bolt will already have the necessary holes for the sensors.
As you can see now I have my oil feed fitting installed, you can see the old looking inlet and outlet lines, the reason is because I had to use the ones off of a 6-bolt engine. This includes the lines and the cooler that I mounted in the front drivers side fender similar the way the side mount is. The reason I went with an air cooled setup is for several reasons. Number one is because the stock cooling system has to cool the oil from the engine and the turbo. Also I've heard that the sandwiched oil and water cooling system can break and cause water to leak into the oil and visa versa. This way it takes some stress off the stock system, and provides better oil cooling.
This is just a simple picture of the Cometic head gasket from www.magnusmotorsports.com they are a bit pricey at $100 a pop. It is a multi layer steel gasket with a fire ring. They come in different sizes and thicknesses. www.horsepowerfreak.com has some for cheaper but you have to make sure you get the right one. The one I have has a 88mm bore and is .043" thick because I had my deck shaved so much.
Ok I thought you could see the valve springs and retainers better when I took the picture, I guess not. I'll take another one but the dual valve springs and retainers are there. Also the intake manifold is bolted on along with all the other little things that attach to the head. All it needs is a nice set of cams and it will be pretty much ready to go.
Finally I ordered the pistons, they are one of the most expensive single part, with a total of $450 or so after shipping. I just always found other little things that I wanted to buy. Anyhow the set comes with 4 sets of rings 8 spiral locks, pins and 4 coated pistons. The pistons even have the weight wrote onto them in black marker. This saved some times because I weighed the rods and pins and found the combination that weighed the same. They where all within 1 gram of each other. for an average of 1021 grams without the rod bearings.
Here are the pistons fully assembled. Each ring was checked in the bore they where going in. Wiseco recommends .004" of ring end gap for every one inch of bore. My bore is 3.406" this gives me a recommended value of .0136". They suggest even more if the pistons are used in high performance applications I used the .0134" feeler gauge and tested both top and secondary pistons. Each gap was only slightly more than the feeler gauge I was using leaving me with plenty of room for expansion.
The bores where cleaned with fresh engine oil, and the bearings installed using assembly lube. Once everything was in place the crank was spun around several times to make sure that there was no binding and everything rotated smoothly. Upon close inspection I noticed the number 3 cylinder was slightly higher than the others. I found that I had installed the piston backwards, unlike factory pistons there is no arrow that points the piston in the right direction. The only thing is the stamped serial number on the top. I had to pull the piston out and turn it around. The pin is not directly in the center of the piston and is off to one side, if they aren't install correctly things could really get screwed up. Another helpful hint, as you can see my Eagle H-beams aren't new. What I didn't know about them is that they require 90-92 size bearings. I just happened to come across Eagles web site, and noticed a small note for these rods. It says "Note: must use bearings for 1990-1992 engine!" The guy I bought the rods from never said anything about it so I was going to use the 93+ bearings. The 93+ fit alright but the they are a little smaller. I test fit a used 6-bolt rod bearing I had laying around it fit perfectly. So a set of 90-92 Clevite bearings are on the way. Also according to ARPs site 3/8" bolts must be torque to 45 ft/lbs if using 30 wt engine oil or 35 if using ARP moly lube.
As of now I have 4 of the 5 needed items that are required to complete the engine and put it in. So far the HKS 272 intake cam, ACT 2600 pressure plate, ARP head bolts, and new Clevite bearings are ordered and I am just waiting for them to arrive. Asides from that there is one part that I am unable to obtain that is an HKS 272 exhaust cam. It seems no one has them. Once the other parts that are ordered arrive they will be installed and everything will be waiting for that cam. Wish me luck.
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