DSM 7-Bolt 4G64 swap w/ 4G63 1G DOHC head in a 2G

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I'm sure most of you have seen these type of pictures before the head I will be using is on the top(1G) and the 2G is on the bottom. As you can see the 1G thermostat housing.  And you can also see how the water out let that goes to the radiator is in the same spot on both units, this allows the use of a 2G water hose on the 1G head. You can also see what happens when a exhaust manifold bolt breaks on the top right of the 2G head. You can see all the soot from the exhaust. Do yourself a favor when installing the exhaust manifold start from the inside and work outwards and don't over torque,  the 1G head has had the studs removed I am replacing them with stronger SS bolts to help prevent this from happening again.

This is a comparison of the 1G head and the 2G head on the bottom.

Another shot of the head from the intake side. Here you can see the real difference in why people swap out the 2G. The pictures speak for them selves.

Another picture of the 1G head and 2G head. You can see the size difference in the intake runners.

A quick shot of the top. Only thing there is the valve guides everything not there will be replaced.

Just a pic of the 1G head all cleaned up with nothing on it.

I wanted to show you guys how I did the balance shaft removal. the shaft was cut off about an inch from the oil pump housing. I used a tap set and taped the existing hole to fit this smaller bolt in there. I also taped the hole out on the other side to allow a longer bolt to be put into its place. This double insures that that no oil will be sent through the balance shaft. The other balance shaft was removed and filled with a freeze plug pulled out of the block before it went to get cleaned. A little JB weld secures it in place and insure that it won't leak oil. I also used some sealant to double insure that it will not leak. The pulley for the right balance shaft was removed and replaced with a shorter bolt and some sealant on the threads to prevent leakage.

Here is the 4G64 block with the balance shaft cut off about an inch from the oil pump assymbly. Then it was tapped in the center and a bolt screwed into place to prevent oil from coming out.

This applies only to 6-bolt installs. And the final picture for now is the 1G cam angle sensor modified to provide both crank and cam signals to my 2G 95 ECU - Click here for diagram from RRE You can better see how the wires connect here in this picture. Using this method you also have to  swap plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, or swap the trigger wires on your coil pack. For me this was the white and red wires.

***Update*** After thinking about it I realized that I won't need to do what I was going to do above for my my application. The 7-bolt 4G64 uses the same front case as the the 7-bolt 4G63. That means that the crank angle sensor will fit on the front case. So I will be using this diagram instead of the one above. I originally was going to use a 6-bolt and already had the cable built so I didn't think of it till now. But you will want to use this method if you are using a 7-bolt because it will eliminate the problem of getting RM (random misfires) that some people experience from trying to simulate a crank signal with the 1G CAS.

This is just a picture if the cam angle sensor, cable that I originally made. It was so that I could use the 1G head on the 6-bolt block. But now i'm going with the 7-bolt 4G64 block.

 

17 Dec 03: The head was dropped off to get the runners polished up and casting flashes/marks removed, this should help reduce the carbon buildup on the exhaust side and will help with air flow on the intake. I am also getting the dome polished to remove heat risers.

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