Turbo DSM 7-Bolt 4G64 swap w/ 4G63 1G DOHC head in a 2G

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Last updated Apr/04/05 -  Updated Q/A site with some more questions, also added some helpful links on bottom of page 6

I thought I would share with everyone my engine build-up I will try and document most of what I've done. This will be a bit of a different build up as I will be using a 7-bolt 4G64 engine, with a 1G head, I don't have all the go fast goodies that I want yet but I already have a good platform. The reason I'm going with a 2.4L is because I wanted to be able to use a bigger turbo. I wanted to have a lot of torque on tap without having to run high boost on the street.

First picture is simply of the engine block, I have mounted the power steering pump rack, water pump and the 1G water pipe. You mite even be able to make out the "4G64" on the block tag. Also I used freeze plugs to plug up the 5 extra holes on the top of the block, sizes are one-1/2", two-5/8" and two-11/16. On two of them it didn't quite fit tight enough so I just used a hammer to flatten the plug making it a bit wider. I've also blocked off the water feed line for the turbo on both the block and the water pipe, I won't need a water feed on the T3/T4.

This is the 4G64 block, with the water pipe, and front case

 

Next is the crank and the stock rods, this is the stock 4G64 crank, I had the machine shop clean it up and make sure it was still round in all the right places. I have Eagle H-beams (not in the picture), they weighed an average of about 555 grams compared to the stock rods of 609 and are a lot stronger. You can use the stock ones that came with the block or regular 4G63 rods, they are the same but will only safley hold about 300-350HP. I will be using Wiseco pistons, you can get them from  www.importperformanceparts.net  the part number for the 2G   WI-K548M865 for $419, Powertech Imports have them for $409. Jamie from Powertech Imports was out when I was ready to order. So I ordered from a place called 'Race Engineering' out of Florida not 'Road Race Engineering' in CA. The number is 561-533 5500 ask for John, the price is higher than the others at $439. Just thought I would give you several different places because it seems they are hard to keep in stock.  They will give me a CR of 9.3:1,or 8.8 for 1G, kind of high but I can keep the boost down on the street and it should provide awesome spool-up for the turbo. You guys may also be able to order these from any place that sells Wiseco but they may have to be ordered in. Its part #K564M865 for the 1G version of the pistons (that means it will have a wrist pin size of 22mm).

Here is the 4G64 crank, and the 4G63 rods, also in the picture is the 1G intake manifold, and the T3/T4 60 trim.

Next is the head I will be using the 1G intake manifold and the 1G throttle body. As you all may know the 1G intake runners and throttle body are much bigger than the Honda sized 2G unit. I would have used the 2G head to keep the intake air velocity up but with the extra 20% in displacement this shouldn't be a problem. I am ordering a set of HKS 272s any cams that will work in the 4G63 head will work fine, but you may want to go with larger than normal because you will be moving more air. I have heard good reviews about the FP cams so this can be an alternative to the HKS cams that are hard to find.  You can also see the Turbonetics Deltagate and the T3/T4 60 trim in the picture.

Here is the 1G head with 1G intake manifold and throttle body.

I thought I would show you guys what I had cooked up,  I did a balance shaft elimination kit on an engine that I built recently, and while I was putting it back together I said "man this little gear is pretty heavy I wish I didn't have to put it back on" Well I couldn't do that because it's needed to align the timing belt gear with everything else. So I did the next best thing and cut it using a simple hacksaw, I cut the center out of an extra one and used it as a spacer and cleaned up the edges a bit on my grinding wheel. There is a bevel on the wheel that I used as a guide so I cut in the same spot each time. I weighed the before and after, before it was cut it weighted 10.7oz afterwards it was 2.8oz, that left me with only 26% of the weight it was. Hey every little bit helps, and this along with a B/S removal should be worth at least 8+ HP. By the way the Left BS weighed 3lbs, 7.4oz and the right was 2lbs, 6oz., the pulley was 6oz For a total of 6lbs, 8oz

Update: Instead of cutting it up like I did below you can order part number MD128107 this will replace the pulley with a spacer ring. I have sense ordered one of these it was $7.64 from my dealership. Its weight was 2 oz this is 0.8 less than the one I made.

***Do this at your own risk***

Picture of the stock balance shaft gear and the one that I cut on the right.

 

There is still a lot of stuff to do but I went ahead and threw everything on to the block real quick just to see what it would look like. I still need to buy the pistons and this Concept Racing MBCAD kit to finish the bottom end, and help eliminate crankwalk. I also still need to have the head rebuilt. You may have also noticed that I have the B&M Command Flo on the fuel rail, I have modified the stock 2G FPR to flow enough to handle my rewired Walbro 255 this allows me to both raise and lower my fuel pressure with the Command Flo.

Here is a picture of the 4G64 block with the 1G head on it and some of the other things on there as well. Just to see what it would look like.

 

One thing I want to stress is how important it is to get the right crank bearings. If undersize bearings are selected at the very least you will have low oil pressure. If the size is to far off it can cause the oil pressure to be so low that you get thrust bearing and journal wear quickly. There are two things you have to do to determine what bearings you need for the 7-bolt. First is to look at the bottom of the block located on the knock sensor side toward the transmission. There is going to be a strip of numbers the strip that has five numbers is the crank bearings. Record the values. Then measure the crankshaft journal diameter and compare it to the chart below. Using the first and second number you can determine what bearing you need to get. It is common to have several different bearings for one crank. Mine was 11001. If you have an aftermarket crank then you can simply look at the color codes located on the sides of the counterweights. For the 6-bolt versions just ask for 6-bolt bearings, they are all the same lucky you. One thing to note is that there were 3 different thrust bearings, the first was 95 to about 97 then 97 model year did a redesign and finally 98 and up had 3 peace thrust bearing. You only need to worry about getting a one or three peace bearing. Even if you have a 95-97 you would still use the new design for the 97 model year because it is upgrade. If you had the 3 peace you must use the 3 peace design. All other bearings besides the thrust bearings use the same part numbers.

 

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